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How Can I Safely Remove Gel Colour Without Damaging My Natural Nails?

There's a moment — usually around the three-week mark — when your gel manicure starts growing out and you decide it's time for a fresh set. And in that moment, a little voice in your head whispers: "Just peel it off. It's already lifting at the corner. It'll be fine." It won't be fine. Peeling, picking, or forcing off gel polish is one of the fastest ways to damage your natural nails. That satisfying peel doesn't just remove the colour — it strips away the top layers of your nail plate along with it. The result is thin, weak, peeling nails that feel sensitive and take months to recover. The good news is that removing gel polish properly at home is surprisingly simple. It takes a little patience (about 15 to 20 minutes), but it leaves your natural nails completely intact and ready for whatever comes next — whether that's a new set of gel colour, a strengthening BIAB treatment, or a rest period to let your nails breathe. Here's exactly how professionals do it, adapted for your kitchen table. Why You Should Never Peel Off Gel Polish Let's get this out of the way first, because understanding the "why" makes it much easier to resist the temptation. Gel polish bonds to your nail plate through a chemical curing process. When UV or LED light hits the gel, it hardens and forms a tight adhesion to the surface of your nail. That bond is what gives gel its incredible three-week staying power — and it's also what makes it impossible to remove cleanly by just pulling it off. When you peel gel polish, you're not separating product from nail. You're ripping the top layers of the nail plate away with the product. Those layers don't grow back quickly — it takes roughly three to six months for a nail to fully grow out from the cuticle to the free edge. The damage is cumulative too. Peel off one manicure and you might not notice much. Do it repeatedly and you'll end up with nails that are paper-thin, ridged, constantly peeling at the tips, and so weak that nothing adheres to them properly anymore. It becomes a vicious cycle where each new manicure lifts faster because the nail surface is too damaged to hold product. The proper removal method breaks down that chemical bond gently, using acetone to dissolve the gel so it slides off the nail without taking anything with it. It takes a few extra minutes. Your nails will thank you for years. What You'll Need Before you start, gather everything so you're not scrambling mid-process with acetone-soaked fingers. Here's your toolkit: Pure acetone. This is non-negotiable for gel removal. Regular nail polish remover (even the kind labelled "strengthening" or "conditioning") doesn't contain enough acetone to break down cured gel polish. Look for 100% pure acetone — you'll find it at any chemist or beauty supply store. It's inexpensive and lasts ages. A coarse nail file (100–150 grit). You'll use this to break through the top coat before soaking. This isn't the same file you'd use for shaping — it needs to be coarse enough to scratch through the shiny surface layer efficiently. Lint-free wipes or pads. Cotton balls work in a pinch, but lint-free pads are better because they don't leave fibres stuck to the nail. Cut them into small squares — roughly the size of each nail. Aluminium foil. Cut into strips about 8cm x 8cm. These wrap around each fingertip to hold the acetone-soaked pad in place. Pre-cut ten pieces before you start. A cuticle pusher or orangewood stick. For gently nudging the softened gel off the nail plate after soaking. Cuticle oil and a good hand cream. Acetone is effective but drying. You'll want to replenish moisture immediately after removal. Optional but helpful: A small glass or ceramic bowl if you prefer the soak method over foil wraps, and a nail buffer (220+ grit) for smoothing the nail surface afterwards. Method 1: The Foil Wrap Method (Recommended) This is the standard professional method and the one we recommend for home use. It's efficient, controlled, and minimises how much acetone touches your skin. Step 1 — File the Top Coat Using your coarse file (100–150 grit), gently file the shiny top layer off each nail. You're not trying to file all the way down to the natural nail — you're just breaking through the top coat's seal so the acetone can penetrate the layers underneath. File with light, even strokes across the entire nail surface. You'll know you've done enough when the nail looks matte and slightly scratched rather than glossy. If you start seeing patches of your natural nail colour coming through, you've gone too far — ease up on the pressure. This step makes a massive difference in how quickly and completely the gel dissolves. Without it, the top coat acts as a barrier and the acetone can't reach the colour layers properly. You'll end up soaking for twice as long and still fighting with stubborn patches. Step 2 — Protect the Surrounding Skin Acetone dries out the skin around your nails, which can cause irritation — especially if you have sensitive skin or any small cuts near the cuticle area. Apply a thin layer of cuticle oil or petroleum jelly (like Vaseline) to the skin around each nail before soaking. This creates a protective barrier that prevents the acetone from stripping moisture from the surrounding tissue. It's a small step that makes the whole experience more comfortable. Step 3 — Apply Acetone-Soaked Pads Saturate a lint-free pad with pure acetone and place it directly on top of the nail, pressing it down so it makes full contact with the entire nail surface. The pad should be damp enough that you can feel the acetone, but not so soaked that it's dripping everywhere. Immediately wrap a piece of aluminium foil around the fingertip to hold the pad in place. Fold the foil snugly but not so tight that it's uncomfortable. The foil traps heat from your finger, which actually speeds up the dissolving process. Repeat on all ten nails. Step 4 — Wait (Patiently) This is the hardest part for most people. Set a timer for 10 to 15 minutes and leave the wraps alone. Don't peek. Every time you unwrap a nail to check, you let the acetone evaporate and reset the dissolving process. Trust the timer. While you wait, you can watch something, listen to a podcast, or just enjoy a few minutes of enforced stillness. Think of it as the world's most niche form of meditation. If you're removing a particularly thick application (multiple coats, glitter polish, or builder gel), you may need up to 20 minutes. Thicker products take longer to dissolve, and that's completely normal. Step 5 — Gently Remove the Softened Gel After 10 to 15 minutes, remove the foil and pad from one finger (start with your thumb — it's the easiest to see). The gel should look wrinkled, bubbly, or visibly lifted from the nail surface. This is exactly what you want. Using a cuticle pusher or orangewood stick, gently push the softened gel off the nail. It should slide away with very little resistance. Work from the cuticle end towards the free edge in smooth, gentle strokes. If the gel isn't budging easily, stop. Rewrap that nail and give it another five minutes. Forcing gel that hasn't fully dissolved is almost as damaging as peeling it off. The product should essentially fall away on its own — if you're scraping hard, it's not ready. Repeat on each finger, one at a time. This way, the remaining fingers stay wrapped and continue soaking while you work. Step 6 — Buff and Smooth Once all the gel is removed, you may notice some slight texture or minor residue on the nail surface. This is normal and easy to fix. Take a fine buffer (220 grit or higher) and gently smooth the nail surface with a few light passes. You're not trying to file the nail down — just evening out any tiny rough spots left behind by the removal process. Be gentle. Your nails have just been through an acetone soak, and the surface is slightly more vulnerable than usual. A few light buffing strokes is all it takes. Step 7 — Nourish and Hydrate This is the step that separates people who remove gel safely from people who end up with dry, brittle nails despite doing everything else right. Acetone strips moisture from both the nail plate and the surrounding skin. Immediately after removal, apply a generous amount of cuticle oil to each nail and massage it into the nail, cuticles, and surrounding skin. Follow up with a rich hand cream. Do this again before bed on the same day, and ideally for the next two to three days if you're not applying a new manicure immediately. Your nails will bounce back much faster with consistent moisture. Method 2: The Bowl Soak Method If you prefer not to fuss with foil wraps, the bowl soak method works just as well. It's slightly less precise (more skin exposure to acetone), but some people find it easier. Pour enough pure acetone into a small glass or ceramic bowl to cover your nails completely. Don't use plastic — acetone can dissolve certain plastics. Submerge your fingertips and soak for 10 to 15 minutes. As with the foil method, file through the top coat first and protect the skin around your nails with oil or petroleum jelly. After soaking, gently push the softened gel away with a cuticle pusher. The trade-off with this method is that more skin is exposed to acetone, which means more drying. Make sure to moisturise thoroughly afterwards. Pro tip: Pouring a small amount of cuticle oil on top of the acetone in the bowl creates a thin barrier that reduces evaporation and helps protect your skin during the soak. It's a trick a lot of nail techs use. What About Peel-Off Base Coats? Peel-off base coats have become popular in the at-home gel community, and for good reason — they genuinely make removal effortless. You literally peel the gel off in one piece, no acetone required. However, there are important trade-offs to understand. Peel-off base coats work by creating a weaker bond between the gel and the nail plate. That's what allows them to peel away cleanly. But that weaker bond also means reduced wear time — typically 7 to 10 days instead of the 21+ days you'd expect from a standard gel application. If you prioritise convenience and change your colours frequently, a peel-off base is a legitimate option. If you want maximum longevity and durability, a traditional soak-off base coat with proper removal will always outperform it. For the best of both worlds, some people use a peel-off base for fun, short-term looks (a weekend event, for instance) and a professional gel system with proper soak-off removal for their everyday three-week manicures. Removing Builder Gel and BIAB If you're wearing Builder in a Bottle (BIAB) or builder gel, the removal process is similar but takes a bit more time and care due to the thicker product layer. Builder gels and BIAB products are designed to be stronger and more durable than standard gel polish, which means acetone needs longer to break them down. Expect 15 to 20 minutes of soaking after filing the top layers. The filing step is especially important here. Because builder products are thicker, you'll want to file down as much of the bulk as possible (without hitting your natural nail) before soaking. This dramatically reduces soaking time and makes the removal process smoother. Some builder gels are specifically formulated to be soak-off friendly, while others (hard gels) require full filing for removal. OPAL's BIAB range is designed with soak-off removal in mind, which makes the process much gentler on your natural nails. If you're unsure whether your builder product is soak-off or hard gel, check the product description or contact the OPAL team for guidance before attempting removal. How to Tell If Your Nails Are Damaged (And What to Do) Even with careful removal, years of continuous gel wear can sometimes take a toll. Here's how to check your nail health and what to do if things need attention. Signs of healthy nails: Smooth surface, slight natural shine, flexible but firm, consistent colour (pinkish, depending on skin tone), no pain or sensitivity. Signs of damage: White patches or chalky spots, visible ridges or grooves, thinning that makes the nail bend easily, peeling or flaking at the tips, redness or sensitivity at the nail bed. If you notice signs of damage, the best thing you can do is give your nails a break from all products for two to four weeks. During that break, apply cuticle oil twice daily and use a nail hardener or strengthening treatment if needed. When you're ready to return to gel, consider starting with a BIAB treatment rather than going straight back to full gel colour. BIAB adds a protective, flexible overlay that supports the natural nail while it recovers — giving you beautiful nails and strengthening them at the same time. A vegan, professionally formulated gel polish with clean ingredients also helps. Brands that invest in nail-friendly formulas — free from harsh chemicals like formaldehyde, toluene, and DBP — are gentler on the nail plate over repeated wear cycles. OPAL Professional's range is 100% vegan and cruelty-free, which makes it a solid choice for long-term nail health. Frequently Asked Questions Can I use regular nail polish remover instead of acetone? No — not for gel polish. Regular nail polish remover (even if it contains some acetone) isn't concentrated enough to dissolve cured gel product. You'll end up soaking for ages with minimal results and more skin exposure than necessary. Use 100% pure acetone for efficient, effective removal. How often can I safely apply and remove gel polish? Most nail professionals recommend allowing a brief recovery period (even just a day or two with cuticle oil treatment) between back-to-back gel applications. That said, if your nails are healthy and you're applying and removing correctly, many people wear gel continuously for months without issues. The key is proper removal every time — that's what prevents cumulative damage. My gel polish is lifting early. Should I peel the lifted parts off? Tempting, but no. Lifted gel that's still partially bonded to the nail will take nail layers with it if you pull it. If a manicure starts lifting before you're ready for a full removal, either smooth the lifted edge with a file and seal it with top coat, or do a proper soak-off and start fresh. If your gel is consistently lifting within the first week, the issue is almost certainly in your nail prep routine rather than the removal process. Proper prep makes all the difference. Does acetone damage nails? Acetone itself doesn't damage the nail plate — it's a solvent that evaporates quickly. The drying effect is the main concern, and that's easily managed by moisturising thoroughly after removal. What damages nails is mechanical force: peeling, scraping, and aggressive filing. Used correctly, acetone soak-off is the gentlest way to remove gel polish. Can I speed up the removal process? Yes, within reason. Filing more of the top coat away before soaking reduces the amount of product the acetone needs to dissolve. Wrapping with foil (which traps body heat) speeds up the chemical reaction compared to an open bowl soak. And using warm (not hot) acetone dissolves gel faster — you can warm it by placing the acetone bowl inside a larger bowl of warm water. Never microwave or directly heat acetone, as it's highly flammable. The Bottom Line Safe gel removal is one of those things that feels tedious the first time and becomes second nature by the third. The entire process takes 15 to 20 minutes, costs practically nothing, and protects your natural nails from damage that would take months to repair. The temptation to pick and peel will always be there — especially when that first corner starts lifting. But every time you resist that urge and reach for the acetone and foil instead, you're investing in stronger, healthier nails that hold your next manicure even better. Your nails deserve the same care going off as they do going on. Ready for your next colour? Explore the full OPAL gel polish collection and discover shades inspired by the most beautiful corners of Australia. With the right removal routine and a quality formula, gorgeous nails and healthy nails aren't a compromise — they're the same thing. Questions about gel removal, product recommendations, or nail care? Browse our FAQs or reach out to the OPAL team — we're here to help.